As the world witnesses the changing retail-scape of couture, evolving digital maps of leading fashion publications and an unexpected migration of New York’s leading names to the Paris runway cycle, there are a few things that still hold ground in this chaos. The good old Parisian couture has never been this impactful. While Fendi showcased its third Haute Fourrure Fall 2017 show in Théâtre des Champs-Élysées, Maestro Alia took to the runway after 6 years to present his latest offering and Jean Paul Gaultier once again took hints from the eclectic Indian fashion canvass for his Fall 2017 Couture showcase.
Besides Bella Hadid’s sheer turtleneck at Vauthier’s 80’s disco inspired presentation or Sonam Kapoor’s closing of Ralph and Russo’s show, there was much to talk about. Dinner jackets saw interesting interpretations at Dior and Armani, while the statement earrings were hailed as the hero piece by all the couturiers.
Here are some of the hautest trends from Paris Couture Week Fall 2017.
1. Earrings that can get the party started: Statement earrings stood out as the ‘hero piece’ of Fall 2017 couture week. Case in point? Georges Hobeika, who took hints from the Iberian architecture and created ear pieces made in gold, platinum, and pearls. Fashion’s enfant terrible, Jean Paul Gaultier, gave his snow goddess an Indian tinge buy adorning them in nose chains and multiple earrings. At Vauthier’s, though his army was clad in see-through tops and everything risqué-y, a bit of feminine charm was added with fine pieces of precious earrings. Bella Hadid, looking at you…
2. Florals fit for an afternoon Venice wedding: 3D appliqué, printed and embroidered were just a few ways in which florals took over the runway. Adding a dramatic punch was, Fendi. At his third Haute Fourrure show for the Italian label, Karl Lagerfeld created an other worldly floral garden. A few take outs were, velvet flowers of Bella Hadid’s sheer blue dress, 10,000 round paillettes of a cacoon shaped cape and heeled booties with poppies. Giambattista Valli, conjured up some ultra feminine vibes with his floral and mesh cocktail dresses. Planning an after noon wedding in Venice, you won’t have to hustle. Zuhair Murad’s floral see through dresses made for a strong case of red carpet win.
3. Head wraps and hats that spill fun: Besides rich material research, what stood out at Alia’s couture offering was African Queen inspired hairdo. Hair made in a bun and wrapped in see through sheath added on to make a strong statement. Italian maven, Armani’s show was replete with flattering silhouettes. Among those slim skirts, fitted dinner jackets were head pieces, living up to the theme of the show which was ‘mystery’. Among their signature evening wear and Sonam Kapoor’s maximalist bridal gown, Ralph and Russo also created flirty head pieces inspired Russian army officers.
4. Mighty Shoulders: Oversized, exaggerated or even with pads, are a passé. Giambattista Valli perfected his balancing act between demure and dramatic with is elegant floor sweeping gowns and cocktail dresses with dramatic shoulders. At Chanel’s Fall 2017 couture presentation, Karl Lagerfeld’s heavy tweed coats with big arcing shoulders made it for a perfect couture mood board. You can always depend on Johan Galliano for something raw yet magnificent. His latest couture show for Margiela was replete with interpretations of his classics, but one which stood was an over size car coat with ripped shoulders.
5. Dinner Jackets deconstructed: Veering away from those cookie cutter dinner jackets were cinched-at-waist belted bar jackets at Dior, signaling Maria Grazia Chiuri’s love for everything feminine and powerful. Jean Paul Gaultier also played around with his signature Le Smocking with a bias cut. Too much to swoon! When it’s Elie Saab and a dinner jacket, it has to be baroque. And so he did at his couture offering. The gold embroidery on a deep green jacket made a perfect case of couture done right.